Eve was spent as another day at school – another day of pantomimical Mr. Bean – following a warm gathering in Sinseol-dong in the evening, where I was pleasantly surprised with a bottle of sparkling wine. Christmas Day was spent having lunch at an Austrian and German restaurant called Chef Meili in Itaewon, where the chef’s presence made things all the more agreeable. Two days afterwards I spent the evening at Camel in Hongdae where a drummer, bassist, sax0phonist and trumpeter played away until four a.m. The 29th through the 31st were spent suffering from a fever as the weather dropped to as low as -6 degrees Celsius. Skirts have noticeably been – by no mistake – shorter, stuffed cartoon-ish animal flap-hats are unabashedly worn by men, women and children alike, and the sight of old women sitting along the subway stairwell walls – undeterred from cold winds as they shake their small, red plastic bins with gum in exchange for money – are as much ignored as the legless man dragging himself on crowded sidewalks while simultaneously pushing a wooden cart with a boom box tied around it.